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by Team Henné <3 / 8.11.23

What It Takes To Be USDA Certified Organic - A Look Behind the Curtain

With a world full of lip balms stuffed with synthetic ingredients and subpar alternatives – both visually and results wise - Henné began with a vision to create a beautiful, safe and effective lip balm without all that extra junk. And it all started right in our kitchen!

When we launched Henné eight years ago (has it really been that long?!), we set out to prove just how safe our product was by starting the process of being USDA certified organic. To be able to put the same organic label that we saw prominently displayed on food packaging on our local Whole Foods shelves on our own brand packaging seemed like a big deal. If people trust the label enough to eat and drink products marked with it, they surely would feel comfortable putting them on their skin.

But what does it take to become and stay USDA certified organic? Oh boy. While we don't regret it by any means, in hindsight we’re glad we had no clue just how much work and money goes into it when we took those first steps that Tuesday (or was it Wednesday?) afternoon back in 2015.

Fortunately you don't need to start the certification process to learn more about USDA Organic. Some of it is pretty straightforward but there are definitely some curveballs thrown in there that you probably won't expect. Without further ado, let's take a look behind the curtain of the world of USDA Organic.


A Quick Comparison of Certifications in Cosmetics

USDA organic and Cosmos Organic symbols
Before we get into the nitty gritty of becoming certified USDA Organic (which has some of the strictest guidelines and is government regulated), let’s take a moment to clear any confusion around organic symbol(s).

There are a handful of different organic symbols out there, but USDA and Ecocert (COSMOS Organic) are the most widely recognized ones. COSMOS Organic is fairly comparable to the USDA Organic certification in terms of strict guidelines; not to be confused with COSMOS Natural though, which is another branch of Ecocert and not comparable to USDA. COSMOS encourages organic use and promotes respect for the environment. Maintaining ecological balance is essential in obtaining the COSMOS organic certification with applicants being tested on their use of organic ingredients, responsible waste management practices and energy consumption. Overall, COSMOS Organic is pretty strict.

So, what’s the difference between COSMOS Organic and USDA Organic? A crucial differentiator is that COSMOS organic certification only applies to cosmetic products while the USDA organic certification applies to food and cosmetics. That means when we became certified USDA Organic, our products also had to be certified food-grade safe. This ensures that all products certified organic by USDA are held to the same standards, regardless of whether they’re ingested or used topically. So technically our organic products are safe enough to eat but maybe it’s best not to eat them, as there are definitely tastier (and cheaper) foods out there to snack on.

In short, COSMOS Organic is strict, but USDA Organic is even more scrupulous.


The Road to Becoming USDA Certified Organic

It all starts with the National Organic Program (NOP) which oversees organic agricultural products as a function of the USDA. They’re the ones who develop the organic guidelines and enforce them. We mentioned they have some incredibly stringent guidelines, but to what extent? We're going to break it down step-by-step.


Ingredient Dos and Don’ts

The most important part of becoming USDA Organic starts with the ingredients. According to the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances, there are rules about what can and can’t go into certified organic products, including limitations on the number of ingredients allowed in a product. Some prohibited ingredients include lead salts and potassium chloride (a type of salt). Arsenic also makes an appearance on the prohibited list. Kind of shocking arsenic even needs to be included, but it goes to show why purchasing organic is much safer and more regulated than nonorganic goods.

The downside to this list is that even if an ingredient is deemed natural, if it isn’t on this list as an allowed ingredients, a product containing said ingredient cannot be certified organic. The upside is there are ways to petition for natural ingredients to be added. Just don’t expect the government to act quickly on this matter (we know, we’ve tried).

And finally, another aspect of regulating of the ingredients is ensuring products are made without any GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Natural ingredients are the foundation of making organic products, and GMOs are anything but natural.


Managing the Mountain of Administrative & Logistical Upkeep

We covered ingredients, but it doesn’t stop there! The USDA and NOP go even further by monitoring and investigating everything that goes into the making of each certified product. From extensive recordkeeping to inspecting cleaning supplies, the result is a mountain of paperwork - or in our case, lots of VERY large Excel files. You can review the entire rules and regulations to being certified organic on the official USDA site for yourself, but be warned, it’s a doozy!

If you’re not in the mood to read up on every minute detail of being USDA certified organic (we can’t blame you), we’ve summed up the main points in a few paragraphs below:

Organic Certificates
Providing organic certificates from every supplier we use for our products is a requirement. We wouldn’t be allowed to use ingredients from just anywhere! These certificates verify that our suppliers are vetted and their organic ingredients are indeed certified organic.

Cleaning Supplies & Recycling
Yup, even our cleaning supplies and waste management are monitored! But why do the types of soap and disinfectants we use matter? During the inspection, it’s important to eliminate any cross-contamination. If our cleaning supplies aren’t properly killing germs and if we’re not properly removing the cleaning residue after disinfecting, then there’s a chance of germs and chemicals contaminating the product, rendering it nonorganic.

Ok, so what about waste management? Remember how being organic is about being natural? By recycling, we’re protecting our planet from further additions to our already overflowing landfills.

Extensive Monitoring & Recordkeeping
Every aspect of our business is meticulously monitored and logged. Let’s just say, “I don’t know” isn’t a permitted statement when it comes to the safety of organic products. We have extensive logs for receiving ingredients from suppliers, thorough information on our batch records and exact reports on the traceability of every ingredient and finished product. We even have logs for monitoring pests and cleaning schedules! All of this is reported to the inspector prior to and during each organic inspection.

Proper Labeling of Products
Our products must be labeled appropriately when claiming they’re organic. In fact, a hefty fine can occur if a company falsely or incorrectly uses the USDA Organic seal. This means you can trust organic claims on products with this seal.

Annual Inspection
It doesn’t end with the certification though! In order to keep our organic status, we have to go through this process every year. Sometimes certifiers even show up unannounced. This way, you know we’re maintaining the proper protocols year-round when bringing you organic cosmetics.


Why Bother?

With all the extensive and costly work to become and stay certified organic by the USDA, why don’t we just stick to being “natural” like most other clean beauty brands? Because staying USDA Organic is the ultimate way for us to prove that you can trust the safety and quality of our products. And what you put on your skin really, really matters.